A dip in the River Kwai

Few things are more relaxing than sitting on the bank of a river listening to its sound and watching as it constantly changes and renews itself.  I took my last dip in the famous River Kwai this past week while on a field trip with my students from Wat Prok to the Children's Village School.  It took me back to my first dip nearly 10 years ago.  

On a Buddhist meditation retreat we were told that it is easy to comprehend the idea that when you jump into a river, the water you jump into is not the same as the water you leave, because we can see that the water doesn't stop.  But we were challenged to comprehend the idea that even the 'I' that jumped into the river was different than the 'I' who climbed out.   I am amazed at all of the changes that have occurred in my life and understanding from when I first jumped in to when I last climbed out.  It isn't such a huge stretch to think that I really am not the same person anymore.  So much has changed in me and my life and I'm grateful for it all, the joys as well as the failings and disappointments.  

The first trip

I was full of excitement and enthusiasm, fresh out of Maryknoll orientation with a strong sense of call to serve God in service to my neighbor.  My mind was fixed on going where I was needed, learning a new language and enjoying my immersion in the new and fascinating culture.  I relished being a tourist even while not admitting that I was one and was happy to be led here and there by my Maryknoll companions.  Ellen Cowhey and Fr. Mike Bassano were our great friends, holding our hands and guiding us as we soaked in the experience of the country.  

The day Ellen took us out to the school was terrifically exciting.  Big boats, small boats, inter provincial "VIP" buses, motor scooters, pickup trucks and flip flop shoes accompanied with bargaining, negotiating and convincing at each transition.  I especially remember Ellen arguing with the boatman that we weren't tourists and didn't deserve to be charged the tourist rate.  We wanted the commuter rate.  Of course SHE wasn't a tourist, but it was pretty hard to convince them about us.  We stood there dumbly smiling, wearing brightly colored shorts, caps and sunglasses, cameras at the ready and massive backpacks strapped on.  Whether we admitted it or not, at that point we were definitely tourists.  However, we ended up paying half the tourist rate- the discount for Ellen's excellent Thai.  

Our first motor scooter ride was one to remember too.  The scooter itself was somewhere between a motorcycle and a moped, but closer to a moped.  I later learned that this type of motor scooter is generously referred to as a "family motorcycle".  The driver, a Thai man, smaller than Cece, sat all the way up at the front of the seat with Cece's massive backpack between his legs.  Cece was squished up against him and then I was left wearing another big backpack, balancing on the last bit of seat at the back.  I graciously let Cece have the foot pegs placing significant and undesired stress on my sensitive parts.  Crossing the train tracks was the worst!  UghUgh!  At one point during the relatively short, but painful trip, my flipflop nearly fell off so I cleverly placed my feet onto the pavement.  My shoes slipped right back on my foot, but nearly tipped us all off of the bike.  Live and learn, or rather if you live you might learn.

Really, just the trip there and back was enough of an adventure, but Cece and I loved the school.  Thankfully, nearly four years later we would have the chance to live at "The Children's Village School" or Moo Baan Dek.     

to be continued...

My Work at Wat Prok

Some Background about the Wat Prok Migrant Education Project

The education of the migrant children at Wat Prok has been a concern of  Maryknoll Br. John Beeching’s for nearly as long as he's been in Bangkok.  He provided for meals, blankets and other necessities as well as organizing occasional volunteers to teach English and provide enrichment activities for the boys.  

In May 2006, Daniel Aguilar Ortiz started a full time effort with the intention of expanding the education of the children at Wat Prok.  An informal approach is required because children from Burma are not easily accepted in local schools and are the victims of considerable prejudice.

Prior to Daniel’s arrival the children mainly studied Mon and Pali language.  Initially, he planned on teaching English and Math and providing some enrichment activities.  After a couple of months the number of children at the temple doubled and Daniel hired two Thai teachers to better serve the children.  In consultation with the main caregiver, Phra Utara and the Thai teachers, Daniel modified the project aims to focus on Thai language acquisition while maintaining English, Math and enrichment activities.  

The local Non-Formal Education Department Director showed interest in helping the children at the temple and when she realized that Marykoll had an ongoing program she provided student identification cards and weekly government teachers.  This developed into a two year grade 6 certificate program for nearly 35 students.  

Current situation

Presently, there are 65 children studying at Wat Prok.  There’s only one girl.  They range in age from seven to eighteen.  A core group of about 25 students have been at the temple for two or more years, but the average stay is a little less than a year and is dependent on the parents’ needs.   The parents usually withdraw their children from the temple to help earn money in shrimp and fish factories in the outskirts of Bangkok.   Mahachai in Samut Prakan has an extensive Mon population.  Sometimes families work in Bangkok’s booming construction industry. 

In general, the children have high self esteem, are respectful and kind.  They care for one another, and responsibly attend to their chores.  They are spirited and curious yet attentive in class and are a joy and privilege to teach.  

There are three full time teachers each weekday and a government teacher comes every Wednesday.  Mr. Daniel Aguilar Ortiz, Ms. Sawika Tookjit and Ms. Warapon Komphet are the full time teachers.  The Non-formal Education office sends Ms. Kannika Songnai to teach once a week.   Ms. Komphet has a  Teacher’s License and  Ms. Tookjit is currently studying for hers.  All three full time teachers have many years experience working with and teaching children.

People often ask, “Why is there only one girl?”  There is no simple answer, but the easiest answer is that traditionally girls aren’t taken to temples to study, mainly because it is a male environment, a monastery.  There are only a handful of women monks at present in the Theravada Buddhist tradition.  The boys in the class say that if their parents bring the girls with them from Burma they keep them close.  Often they stay in the apartments and look after the younger children.  Other parents choose to leave their girls with the grandparents in Burma.  The one girl who does stay at the temple stays with her father, the abbot’s secretary.  

A Typical Day

The children basically take part in the life and responsibilities of the temple from accompanying monks as they receive alms at dawn to chanting and meditating in the evening.  A typical day begins at 6:00 am.  They wash up and accompany one of the seventy resident monks as he walks through the neighborhood receiving offerings.  They  return to the temple around 8:00.  Boys who don’t go out with the monks attend to setting the table and laying out the food once it arrives.  After the monks eat, the boys clean up, choose their breakfast from the collected food and go outside to eat with their friends.  At 9:00 they start school with the Mon and Thai National Anthems, a short Buddhist chant and 5 minutes silent meditation.  After any announcements they  break into three groups, based on age, Thai language ability and previous schooling experience.  The main focus of the class work is Thai language and culture acquisition, but each group studies English and Math for at least two sessions a week.  At 11:00 it is time for the monks to eat.  The boys are responsible for serving the monks and cleaning up the dining area.  After the Abbot has finished the sermon the children eat and relax.  From 1:30 to 3:30 they study and then clean up the classroom and their living area.  On Friday afternoons everybody goes down to the local futsol (5 on 5 soccer played with a smaller heavier ball on a paved court) court to expend some energy and build up the community spirit.  From 4:30 to 6;00 they study on their own in Phra Utara’s quarters. At six they eat and enjoy some free time until 8:00 when they are expected to join the monks for the evening chanting and meditation.  Bedtime comes around 9:30 for the younger boys and 11:00 for the older ones.  Occasionally, the older boys stay up very late watching their favorite soccer teams from the English Premier League. 

Introduction

I was recently remembering a story within the story of The Alchemist about the boy who is sent throughout a magnificent castle with a spoonful of oil.  He was told not to spill a drop, but to enjoy the wonder and beauty of the castle.  He was so worried about spilling that he didn't see a thing.  The second time around he became lost in the beauty and spilled all but a few drops.  That's our challenge in life and that is the story behind the title of this blog.  In fact, I hope that it will help me to remain cognizant of the wonder that surrounds us while staying focused on my task.

   

"How can I tell if love of life is not a delusion?  How can I tell whether a person who fears death is not like one who has left home and dreads returning?  Lady  Li was the daughter of a border guard of Ai.  When the Duke of Chin first took her captive, she wept until her dress was soaked with tears.  But once she was living in the Duke's palace, sharing his bed and eating delicious food, she wondered why she had ever cried.  How can I tell whether the dead are not amazed that they ever clung to life?"

from Chuang Tsu: Inner Chapters by Gia-Fu Feng and Jane English

On April 10th, Good Friday, Cece and I return to the US.  Our departure from Thailand after 10 years marks a certain culmination of one part of our story where we have learned, suffered, celebrated and been transformed.  Anyone who has ever asked why we came to Thailand knows that it was not our first choice.  It wasn't even our fifth choice.  In fact, it was nowhere on our list of choices.  Other than a vague interest in Asia and World Religions we had no idea what to expect.  Again we find ourselves strangely, but clearly called.  It is time to return home.  Of course, home is no longer the same as the one we left, just as we are no longer the same people as when we left.  We need not look any further than Cece's beautiful belly and the life growing inside.  But there has been new life and transformation in less obvious ways as well.  In these articles,  I hope to chronicle a bit of our lives in Asia while focusing on the beautiful and intense, but often traumatic experience of transition.